Short answer: it depends on two things — whether your EK is pre-facelift (1996–1998) or facelift (1999–2000), and how much extra width you actually need (+20mm for a mild, tucked-and-flush look, +50mm for serious tyre and camber clearance). Get those two right and a Piyesa carbon fender is a bolt-on. Get them wrong and nothing will line up — so let’s make it simple.
1. Pre-facelift or facelift?
The EK front end changed between the 96–98 and 99–00 cars, and fenders are cut to match. We list every fender by exact year range for this reason — if your car is a 99–00, you want the FL fender; a 96–98 wants the PFL. If you’ve swapped to the other front end (common on builds), match the fender to the front end you’re running, not the year on the papers.
2. +20mm or +50mm?
- +20mm — for stock-ish or mild setups: a little more guard to cover a wider wheel/tyre and tuck it flush. Street cars, clean stance, subtle.
- +50mm — for aggressive fitment, big tyre, or a lot of camber (track and drag cars). This is what serious builds run — the same style of fender you’ll see on cars like TNT Garage’s drag EK. Overkill for a mostly-stock car; essential for a wide setup.
3. Hatch, coupe or sedan?
Front fenders are shared across EK body styles for a given front end, but always check the listing — we call out the exact fitment on each product.
Still not sure? Send us your year, body style, and the wheel/tyre + offset you’re running, and we’ll tell you straight which fender to order. We’d rather spend two minutes getting it right than have you gamble on it — that’s the whole point of Piyesa.